AUSTRIA

 

We added to our range of Austrian wines in 2004. Austria has gained much recognition recently for its Grüner Veltliners – especially after Jancis Robinson’s blind tasting against famous Chardonnays – but it is also attracting worthy praise for its dry Rieslings and reds from less well-known grape varieties such as Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch. The dessert wines from the Neusiedlersee are also well worth looking at.

Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal

The very affable Michael Moosbrugger and his wife Eva took over the running of Schloss Gobelsburg’s vineyards in 1996 from the Cistercian monks of the monastery at Zwettl. Since then many changes have taken place though Michael is keen to refer to the traditions that he inherited from an estate that had been making wine for over 800 years.

2003	Riesling Alte Reben	bottle	£19.50
	Proper dry Riesling with plenty of fruit & mineral character. Drinking well now but will continue to improve for a year or two. [Alte Reben = Old Vines]
2001	Riesling Alte Reben	bottle	£19.50
	Just a few bottles left. A little more mineral and less primary fruit than the 2003
2003	Grüner Veltliner Ried Renner	bottle	£13.75
	Ripe citric & mineral character with tropical fruit overtones. Drinking well already but will take on more weight with a little bottle age.
2003	Grüner Veltliner Ried Lamm	bottle	£19.50
	More structure and mineral character than the Renner. Keep 1-2 years.

 

Franz Hirtzberger, Wachau

Hirtzberger is synonymous with quality in Austria, achieved through great thoroughness in the vineyard allowing harvest as late as possible. NB Nomenclature in the Wachau: Smaragd is a quality level (one up from Federspiel), Axpoint is the name of the vineyard.

2003	Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Axpoint	bottle	£21.00
	Already showing heady aromatic fruit character and a waxy texture. Great stuff.
2002	Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Axpoint	bottle	£19.75
	A few bottles left. More backward and with higher minerality than the ’03. Less opulent, more restrained. Ideally keep another 1-2 years.

 

Erich & Walter Polz, Southern Styria

The Polz family are best know for their full-flavoured Sauvignon Blancs. The Grauburgunder is highly recommended too.

2003	Sauvignon Steirische Klassik	bottle	£11.95
	Crisp & fresh minerality combined with a restrained tropical fruit character.
2003	Grauburgunder Grassnitzberg	bottle	£13.25
	Combines the Turkish Delight character of Alsatian Pinot Gris with the mineral character typical of the Polz style.

 

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic

Gerhard Pittnauer, Burgenland

One of the best red wine estates in Burgenland. The Blaufrankisch is a very typical, lively fruity example. We hope to get some more of their excellent Pinot Noir Reserve later in the year.

2003	Blaufrankisch Klassik	bottle	£9.75
	Lively dry red fruit character. Great as an alternative to Cru Beaujolais.

 

Josef Umathum, Burgenland

Umathum has a great reputation for both Zweigelt and Pinot Noir.

2003	Zweigelt	bottle	£10.50
	Spicy, peppery, quite Rhône-like. Well worth trying.
2002	Pinot Noir Unter den Terrassen	bottle	£18.50
	Big, almost new world Pinot structure yet classic Pinot fruit character – not at all overcooked !

 

Helmut Lang, Illmitz, Burgenland

Helmut Lang is not afraid of appearing somewhat eccentric. Where else will you find a sweet Pinot Noir Trockenbeerenauslese?

1995	Samling 88 TBA	half	£24.00
	Intensely sweet tropical fruit flavours but with fresh balancing acidity
1998/99	Pinot Noir TBA	half	£19.50
	Most extraordinary - needs to be tasted to be believed !

 

Feiler-Artinger, Rust, Burgenland

A great estate in the historic appellation of Ruster Ausbruch – almost as famous in the Austro-Hungarian empire as Tokaji.

1998	Ruster Ausbruch Pinot Cuvée	half	£24.00
	Made from a blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay & Neuberger. A little more mineral character than Helmut Lang’s wines, a little less tropical fruit.

 

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic