Haslemere Cellar - Burgundy Wines

BURGUNDY

Many of you know that Burgundy is probably my favourite region – not just for the wines. The architecture, the villages and, most of all, the people contribute to the whole picture. We have been blessed with a succession of good and very good vintages recently – soft, forward 2000s, terroir-typical 2001s wonderfully structured 2002s and the hottest vintage in living memory in 2003. It’s true to say that some of the 2003s need careful selection but there are some very attractive whites for early drinking and some blockbuster reds, albeit in tiny quantities.

WHITE BURGUNDY

Chablis

We continue to favour the wonderful Chablis of Domaine Billaud-Simon. Bernard Billaud and his winemaker nephew Samuel stress the importance of typicity and terroir character achieved from top-quality fruit and minimal handling. The 2002 Grand Cru, though delicious now, will continue to repay patience for at least another two years but the 2001 Les Clos is à point.

2003	Chablis, Domaine Billaud-Simon	*bottle*	£11.50
2003	Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, Domaine Billaud-Simon	*bottle*	£16.50
	Great mineral character despite the ripeness of the vintage with overtones of acacia and celery salt.
2003	Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, Domaine Billaud-Simon	*bottle*	£19.50
	Fuller and a little fatter than the Vaillons – more citric character.
2002	Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos	*bottle*	£39.00
	Cuvée aged solely in stainless steel to give amazing purity of fruit, great length and concentration. Ideally should be kept for at least another two years.
2001	Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos	*bottle*	£37.50
	A little softer than the 2002 and ready for drinking now.

Mâconnais and Côte Chalonnaise

2003	Mâcon-Loché, René Perraton	*bottle*	£8.95
2004	Mâcon-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes, Domane Larochette-Manciat	*bottle*	£10.95
	A recent newcomer. Lovely ripeness with hints of tropical and citric fruit – highly recommended. Arriving early 2006.
2003	Pouilly-Fuissé Les Petits Bruyères, Larochette-Manciat	*bottle*	£14.00
	Big fat ripe fruit but no oak – great balance.
2004	Montagny 1er Cru Cuvée Classique, Château de la Saule	*bottle*	£12.50
	One of our staples for many years. I have often described this wine as “Baby Meursault”.
2002	Rully, Domaine Michel Briday	*bottle*	£13.50
	Stéphane Briday’s whites get better & better – great mineral character and a very judicious use of oak. Need I say more to encourage you to buy his wine ?
2003	Rully 1er Cru Grésigny, Domaine Michel Briday	*bottle*	£15.50
	This is Stéphane’s pièce de résistance – riper, more length & structure and rewards a few years’ cellaring. The 1998 was delicious when drunk recently.

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic

Meursault & Puligny-Montrachet

Our two principal suppliers, Vincent Bouzereau & Domaine Jean Monnier (run by grandson Nicolas), are both based in Meursault but represent a marked contrast in styles. The Monnier wines are steely with prominent mineral character and benefit from a few years maturation. The Bouzereau wines are fatter and richer and, though they mature just as well, are more approachable as young wines. And don’t overlook Vincent’s very un-humble Aligoté!

2004	Bourgogne Aligoté, Vincent Bouzereau	*bottle*	£7.99
	Very well made everyday white Burgundy . special case price	*12 x 75cl*	£86.00
2003	Meursault Les Narvaux, Vincent Bouzereau	*bottle*	£23.50
	A single vineyard wine though not a premier cru – a little more mineral character than the straight village wine.
2003	Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes, Vincent Bouzereau	*bottle*	£34.50
2002	Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d’Or, Vincent Bouzereau	*bottle*	£34.50
	Both Premiers Crus have great richness and structure – the 2003 Charmes is softer and drinking now. The 2002 Goutte d’Or is best kept for 1-2 years.
2001	Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières, Vincent Bouzereau	*bottle*	£35.00
	Vincent only has tiny quantities of Puligny. His 2001 has great mineral character.
2002	Meursault La Barre, Domaine Jean Monnier	*bottle*	£21.00
2002	Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes, Domaine Jean Monnier	*bottle*	£32.00
	Both Meursaults have great concentration but should be kept at least 2 years.
2001	Puligny-Montrachet Petits Nosroyes, Domaine Jean Monnier	*bottle*	£22.00
2000	Meursault Clos du Cromin, Domaine Jean Monnier	*bottle*	£20.00
2001	Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes, Domaine Jean Monnier	*bottle*	£32.00
	Beginning to drink well.
1999	Meursault Clos du Cromin, Domaine Jean Monnier	*bottle*	£20.00


Cellars at Domaine Jean Monnier in Meursault	Vincent Bouzereau giving me a lesson in vine grafting

2002	Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Guettes Domaine Gagey, Louis Jadot	*bottle*	£20.00
2002	Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes, Louis Jadot	*bottle*	£37.50
1992	Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Adrien Belland	*bottle*	£27.50

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic

Corton-Charlemagne

A remarkable collection of vintages all in tip-top condition having been shipped recently straight from the cellars of Jean-Charles Le Bault de la Morinière at Domaine Bonneau-du-Martray – a name synonymous with the famous Grand Cru. All the wines from 1997 back are for drinking now while the 2000, ’01 & ’02 will repay the patient.

2002	Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau-du-Martray	*bottle*	£65.00
2001	Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau-du-Martray	*bottle*	£65.00
2000	Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau-du-Martray	*bottle*	£75.00
1997	Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau-du-Martray	*bottle*	£96.00
1994	Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau-du-Martray	*bottle*	£75.00
1993	Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau-du-Martray	*bottle*	£75.00
1991	Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau-du-Martray	*bottle*	£89.00
1988	Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau-du-Martray	*bottle*	£80.00

also available:

2003

Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau-du-Martray per case

6 x 75cl

£359.00

RED BURGUNDY

Côte Chalonnaise & Mâconnais

Red Chalonnaise wines continue to gain seriousness. The Givry is grown on soil with a high iron content which gives it a marked earthy character. The Mercurey has more of a black cherry fruit character. The Larochette-Manciat wines are a recent discovery (see whites above) and their Mâcon Rouge is great stuff.

2004	Mâcon Rouge Les Bussières, Domaine Larochette-Manciat	*bottle*	£9.75
2002	Givry, Domaine Chofflet-Valdenaire	*bottle*	£13.50
2000	Mercurey 1er Cru, Domaine du Meix-Foulot	*bottle*	£16.25

Côte de Beaune

2001	Chorey-les-Beaune, Domaine Edmond Cornu	*bottle*	£14.00
2001	Aloxe-Corton Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Edmond Cornu	*bottle*	£21.00
	Pierre Cornu’s Chorey-les-Beaune is an old favourite – I often use it in Blind Tastings to demonstrate no-frills Burgundian Pinot Noir. The Aloxe VV is surprisingly ready for drinking.

2002	Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Clos de la Croix de Pierre, Louis Jadot	*bottle*	£18.00
	A monopole vineyard owned by Jadot. Generous fruit, well-made. Drink from 2006.

2003	Corton Grand Cru, Domaine Bonneau du Martray	*bottle*	£59.00
	Jean-Charles has considerably less Corton than Corton-Charlemagne (see above) and he has succeeded in raising the quality of his red wines considerably recently. The turning point was the 1993 vintage. The 2003 is probably his best effort so far.

2002	Pommard-Epenots 1er Cru Clos des Cîteaux, Jean Monnier	*bottle*	£29.00
1998	Pommard-Epenots 1er Cru Clos des Cîteaux, Jean Monnier	*bottle*	£27.50
	Nicolas Monnier has made a fantastic 2002 while his 1998 is drinking well.

2003	Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Bouzereau	*bottle*	£18.50
	Very ripe with classic cherry & raspberry fruit. Delicious early drinking.
2003	Volnay, Domaine Vincent Bouzereau	*bottle*	£19.50
2003	Volnay 1er Cru Champans, Domaine Vincent Bouzereau	*bottle*	£29.50
2003	Volnay 1er Cru Cuvée General Muteau, Hospices de Beaune	*bottle*	£35.00
	Bought at the Hospices de Beaune auction by Vincent Bouzereau and matured & bottled by him under his négociant name Jehan Esmonin. The 2002 (see below) is the more classic while the 2003 is the more gutsy.	*magnum*	£72.00

2002	Volnay, Domaine Vincent Bouzereau	*bottle*	£19.50
	Both this and the 2003 (above) are hugely enjoyable already but the 2002 in particular would benefit from 2-3 years cellaring.
2002	Volnay 1er Cru Champans, Domaine Vincent Bouzereau	*bottle*	£27.50
	The Champans is more serious than than the village Volnay (above) and warrants a few more years maturation. The 2002 will outlive the 2003 (above).
2002	Volnay 1er Cru Cuvée General Muteau, Hospices de Beaune	*bottle*	£32.50
	Great stuff!	*magnum*	£67.00

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic

Côte de Nuits

You might be forgiven for thinking that I have gone mad about Christophe Drag of Domaine Jean Chauvenet’s Nuits-Saint-Georges! Virgile Lignier’s wine are highly recommended too – he made some of the best 2003s I tasted earlier this year.

2003	Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots, Jean Chauvenet	*bottle*	£36.00
	Enormously ripe yet retains great balance. *special case price*	*12 x 75cl*	£389.00
2002	Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots, Jean Chauvenet	*bottle*	£34.50
2002	Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains, Jean Chauvenet	*bottle*	£40.00
	Winemaker Christophe Drag achieved a rare combination of power, concentration and classic structure in 2002
2001	Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots, Jean Chauvenet	*bottle*	£34.50
2001	Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains, Jean Chauvenet	*bottle*	£37.50
	Great “terroir” character in these two. Best kept for 2-3 years.
2000	Nuits-Saint-Georges, Jean Chauvenet	*bottle*	£24.50
	The 2000 Village Nuits has been delicious for about a year.
1999	Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots, Jean Chauvenet	*bottle*	£36.00
	Beginning to drink well.
1997	Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots, Jean Chauvenet	*magnum*	£75.00
	A good candidate for Christmas dinner?
1996	Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières, Jean Chauvenet	*bottle*	£37.50
	The 1996 has taken a while to come round but is now drinking very well.

2003	Chambolle-Musigny, Virgile Lignier	*bottle*	£27.00
	*special case price*	*6 x 75cl*	£149.00
2003	Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières, Virgile Lignier	*bottle*	£37.50
	*special case price*	*6 x 75cl*	£214.00
2003	Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Virgile Lignier	*bottle*	£59.00
	*special case price*	*6 x 75cl*	£320.00
2002	Gevrey-Chambertin, Virgile Lignier	*bottle*	£26.00
	*special case price*	*12 x 75cl*	£278.00
2002	Morey-Saint-Denis, Virgile Lignier	*bottle*	£24.50
	*special case price*	*12 x 75cl*	£264.00
2002	Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Aux Charmes, Virgile Lignier	*bottle*	£33.00
	*special case price*	*12 x 75cl*	£356.00
2002	Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières, Virgile Lignier	*bottle*	£33.00
	*special case price*	*12 x 75cl*	£356.00
2001	Gevrey-Chambertin, Virgile Lignier	*bottle*	£25.50
2001	Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes, Virgile Lignier	*bottle*	£25.50
2001	Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières, Virgile Lignier	*bottle*	£30.00
2000	Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières, Virgile Lignier	*bottle*	£29.00

2002	Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots, Louis Jadot	*bottle*	£42.00
	I have always found the Les Suchots to be one Jadot’s best efforts. Best kept 3-4 years.

The Holy of Holies – Le Montrachet Grand Cru

Beaujolais

I keep on being told that Beaujolais is out of fashion but, judging by the amount of proper Cru wines that we sell, it can’t be.

2003	Morgon Côte du Py, Marcel Jonchet	*bottle*	£9.99
	Marcel’s Morgon is benchmark stuff from the best vineyard in the appéllation.
2004	Fleurie, M Jambon	*bottle*	£11.99
	The same wine that has previously had Marcel Jonchet’s name on it – he has joined forces with Monsieur Jambon.
2004	Brouilly Pisse Vieille, René & Florent Dufour	*bottle*	£11.25
	Despite its unfortunate name the Pisse Vieille [trans. Old Slope] is to Brouilly what the Côte du Py is to Morgon – one of the best sites in the village.

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic