Haslemere Cellar - German Wine

GERMANY

I have always taken German wines seriously. This has been made easier recently with a recent series of good, great and outstanding vintages – there hasn’t really been an indifferent one since 1997 and the last truly poor year was 1991. Though many of you know that my preference is for the Mosel , this list no longer reflects such prejudice with excellent “brown bottles” from Gunderloch in the Rheinhessen, Dönnhoff in the Nahe and Leitz in the Rheingau. Look out too for our 2004 German Vintage Offer. Unless otherwise stated all wines here are 100% Riesling. PLEASE NOTE we hold stock of many more German wines than will fit on the shelves in the shop. If you are making a special journey please telephone in advance to ensure that we have what you want on site.

Dr Loosen, Bernkastel, Mosel

Erni Loosen’s 2002s are still drinking well as young wines but may be expected to close up soon. They will be very rewarding if kept for another 4-10+ years, depending on quality level. The 2003s are so opulent and fruity that they are very enjoyable now; whether they will last as long as the magnificent 2002s is debatable. The 1996 Erdener Prälat Auslese Goldkapsel is just emerging from its shell and will be glorious over the next 5 to 10 years. Erni was made Man of the Year by Decanter Magazine earlier this year – a worthy tribute to a great ambassador for German wine.

2003	Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett, Dr Loosen	*bottle*	£11.50
2002	Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett, Dr Loosen	*bottle*	£11.50
2002	Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, Dr Loosen	*bottle*	£12.50
	Of the two Kabinetts, the Bernkasteler Lay has more pure slate flavours while the Wehlener is more “honey & flowers” in character.
2002	Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese, Dr Loosen	*bottle*	£18.00
	Honey and spring flower flavours with greater mineral extract gives more body than the Kabinett. Drink with light food now or keep 2-3 years and serve with asparagus and salads.
2003	Ürziger Würzgarten Spätlese, Dr Loosen	*bottle*	£20.00
2002	Ürziger Würzgarten Spätlese, Dr Loosen	*bottle*	£20.00
	Urz Wurz is always one my favourite of Erni’s wines – as the name suggests it has an opulent spiciness to its fruit character. This is even more so in the Goldkap Auslese below.
2003	Ürziger Würzgarten Auslese Goldkapsel, Dr Loosen	*half*	£24.00
2003	Erdener Prälat Auslese Goldkapsel, Dr Loosen	*half*	£27.50
1996	Erdener Prälat Auslese Goldkapsel, Dr Loosen	*bottle*	£49.00
	The Prälat is Erni’s flagship wine and deservedly so. Great structure, power & balance.
2002	Bernkasteler Lay Eiswein, Dr Loosen	*half*	£55.00
	Incredibly intense sweet citric fruit perfectly balanced by rapier-like acidity.

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic

Karthäuserhof, Eitelsbach, Ruwer

Being situated in the coolest part of the Mosel , Christoph Tyrell’s Karthäuserhof wines have benefitted hugely from the recent succession of good vintages, especially 2002. These are some of the greatest expressions of what Riesling can do on a slate soil.

2002	Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberger Kabinett	*bottle*	£12.00
	Steely with peach & citric flavours. Light, off-dry and a little yeasty.
2002	Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberger Spätlese	*bottle*	£15.50
	Steely lemon & honey flavours yet overall very elegant. Enough ripe fruit for drinking young with food but has the structure to mature well for 3-4 years.
2002	Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberger Auslese	*bottle*	£22.00
	Lovely balance of elegant summer flowers and slatey mineral flavours. Long finish with racy, ripe acidity. Keep 3 years & drink over the following 5+.
2002	Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberger Riesling Eiswein No.48	*half*	£65.00
	“Dark fruits are intermingled with brown sugar in the aromas of the Eiswein #48. This spicy, well-focused, light to medium-bodied wine reveals loads of sweet black cherry fruit in its long, softly-textured character. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2030.” 90/100 Robert Parker

2002	Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberger Riesling Eiswein No.55	*half*	£69.00
	“Revealing purity and freshness of fruit, the Eiswein #55 exhibits red cherry scents and a well-fashioned, red fruit-packed core. Light to medium-bodied and satin-textured, this wine displays none of the burnt/dark sugar characteristics of the #48. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2038. 91/100” Robert Parker

Josef Leitz, Rüdesheim, Rheingau

A number of you met Johannes Leitz when he came to conduct a tasting of his wine for us recently. The wines showed that it’s no surprise that he is one of the top rated Rheingau wine makers.

2003	Dragonstone Riesling QbA, Leitz	*bottle*	£7.99
	So-called as it comes from the Drachenstein vineyard. Zingy & refreshing with abundant citric fruit. Off-dry. Perfect garden wine.
2003	Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Spätlese, Leitz	*bottle*	£10.50
	“Light to medium-bodied, it pops on the palate revealing tonic-drenched rocks and tangy minerals. Expressive, plush, and smile-inducing, it is a candidate for drinking over the next 8-9 years.” 89/100 Robert Parker
2004	Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Spätlese Alte Reben, Leitz	*bottle*	£18.00
	“…smells pungently of citrus rind and spice, along with peach and almond. The supremely satisfying finish unites intensely mineral elements of salt and wet stone, with an ingratiating juiciness of peach and citrus fruit laced with mint and vanilla. It is completely approachable, even generous, at this moment, but I suspect you could have fun following it for at least a dozen years and possibly significantly longer.” 93/100 Robert Parker
2004	Rüdesheimer Kirchenpfad Riesling Auslese, Leitz	*50cl*	£15.50
	Elegant citric & tropical fruit character. Abundant botrytis overtones but still very fresh. Great length & very approachable but has great potential too.
2003	Rüdesheimer Kirchenpfad Trockenbeerenauslese, Leitz	*half*	£89.00
	Incredibly intense, raisin & mango fruit. Great length with enormous balancing acidity. Fantastic.

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic

Gunderloch, Nackenheim, Rheinhessen

“They call me Mr Acidity” said Fritz Hasselbach, proprietor of Weingut Gunderloch, while we were tasting his wines last year. That is not a reflection of his charming personality but the amazing freshness he achieves in some of the most full-bodied German Rieslings to be found. Fritz loves to promote his wines to accompany Asian and “Fusion” cuisine. The spicier the dish, the sweeter the wine to be served.

2003	Riesling Kabinett Cuvée Jean-Baptiste, Gunderloch	*bottle*	£11.50
	Very full-bodied for a Kabinett yet retains the off-dry character. Minerals and tropical fruit. Great with high-smoke smoked salmon.
2003	Nackenheimer Rothenberg Spätlese, Gunderloch	*bottle*	£20.00
	“Massively expressive, both aromatically and on the palate, the 2003 Riesling Spatlese Nackenheimer Rothenberg is an outstanding medium-bodied effort. Its creamy flint, mineral, and spice scents lead to a broad personality that is awash in ripe fruits. Poached pears, spices, red currants, and cassis make up its complex, generous character. Drink this beauty over the next 12-13 years.” 91/100 Robert Parker.
2002	Nackenheimer Rothenberg Spätlese, Gunderloch	*bottle*	£20.00
	Lighter but more mineraly than the ’03.Limited quantities available.
2002	Nackenheimer Rothenberg Auslese, Gunderloch	*bottle*	£22.50
	Lots of weight & mineral structure with juicy tropical fruit flavours. Sweet yet balanced & freshened by great ripe acidity. Drink over the next 10-12 years.	*half*	£12.00
2003	Nackenheimer Rothenberg Auslese Goldkapsel, Gunderloch	*bottle*	£40.00
	“A dense wine that flirts with heaviness, the white pepper, cumin, spice, and flint-scented [it] offers a plush, plump personality. Smoky slate, minerals, and notes of candied apples can be discerned in its thick flavor profile. While this wine will undoubtedly last a long time because of its residual sugar, my recommendation is to drink it over the next 12-14 years.” 90/100 Robert Parker
2002	Nackenheimer Rothenberg Auslese Goldkapsel, Gunderloch	*bottle*	£44.00
	Like many Goldkaps, made from Beerenauslese quality grapes. Very ripe honeyed tropical fruit flavours with marked spicy botrytis tones balanced by long refreshing acidity. Very sweet but still fresh. Hugely enjoyable now but will last 20 years or more.	*half*	£23.00
2002	Nackenheimer Rothenberg Beerenauslese, Gunderloch	*half*	£149.00
	"Intense. A deep golden color marks this BA, whose spice and earth aromas and candied orange and caramel notes get support from the vivid acidity. Very much like an eiswein in character. Fine lingering finish. Drink now through 2018." 95/100 Wine Spectator.
2002	Nackenheimer Rothenberg Trockenbeerenauslese, Gunderloch	*half*	£185.00
	"A bold, assertive dessert wine. Plenty of mineral, spice, orange peel and dried apricot aromas and flavors pulse through the unctuous texture courtesy of the racy acidity. Still a little young, this needs time to integrate. Terrific finish. Best from 2005 through 2020." 98/100 Wine Spectator.

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic

Herman Dönnhoff, Oberhaus, Nahe

Despite his prodigious talent as a winemaker, Helmut Dönnhoff is one of the most modest men one is likely to meet. No surprise that he has been Winemaker of the Year in both Feinschmecker and Gault-Millau.

2003	Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett, Dönnhoff	*bottle*	£14.00
	“Aromatically demure, the mineral-scented Leistenberg offers a light to medium-bodied personality filled with fresh herbs. Satin-textured and deep, it sports a powerful underlying minerality, excellent richness, and a gorgeously long finish. Drink it over the next 10 years.” 90/100 Robert Parker
2002	Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett, Dönnhoff	*bottle*	£14.00
	“There is an ethereal, Chevalier-Montrachet-like, quality … Its intense mineral liqueur aromas as well as flavors penetrate and dominate the taster. Harmonious, intense, concentrated, deep, of enormous purity and length, this wine earned a resounding “Wow!” in my notes. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2016.” 92/100 Robert Parker
2002	Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Kabinett, Dönnhoff	*bottle*	£13.00
	“The 2002 Riesling Kabinett Norheimer Dellchen is aromatically demure yet reveals a lush, pear-laced personality with complex notes of gravel and tangy limes. A wine of outstanding clarity and grip, its light to medium-bodied character is satin-textured, focused, and long. Projected maturity: 2004-2013.” 90/100 Robert Parker
2003	Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff	*bottle*	£24.00
	“Loads of fresh herbs intermingled with a myriad of spices are found in the aromatic profile ... A bold, sultry wine, it unleashes powerful waves of pears, candied apples, spices, melon balls, raspberries, and red currants that conquer the taster’s palate. This offering’s stupendous flavor profile, depth, and sensual nature led me to write “sexylicious!” in my notebook. Yet, what makes this stand out most when compared to Donnhoff’s other 2003 Spätlesen is the extraordinary precision of its fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020.” 95/100 Robert Parker
2002	Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff	*bottle*	£19.00
	“… explodes from the glass with sweet onion and black raspberry aromas. This decadent wine offers a goose-down duvet texture as well as wide, lush waves of juicy cassis fruit, sea salt, and flint. Powerful, edge-free, pure, and magnificently long, this medium-bodied beauty is a candidate for drinking between 2008 and 2025.” 95/100 Robert Parker
2002	Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese, Dönnhoff	*half*	£22.00
	“Dominated by botrytis and spices, the nose leads to a broad, immensely rich core of enormous concentration. Medium-bodied, laced with spicy noble rot, it has tremendous depth, power, and length. It is rather fitting that both of the estate’s 2002 Auslesen are only available in half-bottles, a sign that Donnhoff himself realizes they are more than Auslesen, deserving to be treated (and served) as Beerenauslesen. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030.” 94/100 Robert Parker
2003	Oberhäuser Brücke Auslese, Dönnhoff	*half*	£25.00
	“… exhibits a terrific nose of perfume, lilies, violets, and apples. Broad, supple, and round, this pure, medium-bodied wine has the personality and grace of a plump, joyful dancer. Its plush, sweet white fruit-packed core is dusted with spices whose flavors are seamlessly extended into its prolonged finish. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030.” 95/100 Robert Parker