Haslemere Cellar - Wine from Italy

ITALY

Major changes here. I have spent the last year or so being unable to resist adding Italian wines to the list. Look especially at the new range of Tuscans and the much enlarged Sicilian section.

Alto Adige

2006	Pinot Grigio, Mazzolado	*bottle*	£7.99
	A proper Pinot Grigio – i.e. plenty of flavour and length.

Veneto

2006	*Soave Classico, Inama*	*bottle*	£10.99
	Stafano Inama makes one of the best examples of high quality, classic Soave with plenty of mineral character. A good rival to Chablis.
2006	*Soave Classico Superiore Vigneti di Foscarino*	*bottle*	£14.99
	From a single vineyard at the top of Monte Foscarino. More “terroir” character than the straight Soave.
2006	San Vincenzo , Veneto IGT, Anselmi	*bottle*	£10.99
	From the Soave district and still our top selling Italian white. Roberto Anselmi opted out of the Soave regulations in favour of Indicazzione Geografica Tipica (IGT) so that he can “do his own thing” with his wines and to great effect. His style is a little more fruity & modern than that of Stefano Inama (above).
2006	Capitel Foscarino , Veneto IGT, Anselmi	*bottle*	£14.99
	Single vineyard wine – more mineral and terroir character than the San Vincenzo. Makes an interesting comparison with Inama’s Vigneto di Foscarino.
2004	I Capitelli, Veneto Passito, Anselmi	*half*	£15.50
	Late-harvest dessert wine. Great ripe citric fruit character, length and acid balance. Formerly known as Recioto di Soave.
2005	*Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Pasqua*	*bottle*	£6.99
	Soft, fruit-packed Valpolicella – great for outdoors.

	*Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso, Amarone* & Recioto
	April 2008 - We are currently looking at samples with a view to finding a new range of Valpolicellas. In the meantime we have small quantities of the following left:
2001	*Amarone della Valpolicella Casa Vecie, Brigaldara*	*magnum*	£80.00
	Made in the traditional fashion by partly drying the grapes prior to pressing to concentrate the sugars. The result is very full-bodied – serve with very hearty meat dishes or hard cheeses such as Parmesan or Grana.
2003	*Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Peagna, Vaona*	*50cl*	£22.50
	Sweet red made from dried grapes like the Amarone but the fermentation stops early to leave unconverted sugar. Great with panacotta or blue cheese.
2000	*Privilegia IGT Rosso Veronese, Giuseppe Lonardi*	*bottle*	£23.50
	Non-traditional for the Valpolicella district – hence IGT classification – made from Cabernet Franc & Corvina with a little barrique ageing. Serious stuff!

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic

Lombardy – Valtellina & Oltrepo Pavese

Valtellina is one of my favourite off-beat wine districts, having tasted many examples while holidaying on Lake Como. The wines are made from Chiavennasca (the local name for Nebbiolo) and may be as serious as their Piedmontese cousins Barolo & Barbaresco. The vineyards are steep terraces in the foothills of the Alps. To the north is the Swiss border and the next main town is St Moritz. The region is divided into 4 sub-districts: Sassella, Inferno, Grumello & Valgella. Sfurzato (or Sfursat in local dialect) is made by part drying the grapes in a similar fashion to Amarone (above) and is dry and powerful. Nino Negri is the largest producer and has done much to put the region on the map; Aldo Rainoldi is possibly the best.

2003	Sassella Le Tense, Valtellina Superiore, Nino Negri	*bottle*	£15.50
	Rich spicy fruit with a roundness achieved from a little barrique ageing.
1999	Sfursat Fruttaio Ca’ Rizzieri, Aldo Rainoldi	*bottle*	£39.00
	Big, powerful, concentrated tarry fruit. Great with a steak or a posh barbecue. At this age the wine needs 2-3 hours decanting. Well worth ageing for another few years – I have tasted glorious examples of 20 year-old Sfursats.
1999	Pinot Nero, Isimbarda, Oltrepo Pavese	*bottle*	£17.50
	As good an example of Pinot Noir I have ever found in Italy .

Piedmont

2006	Roero Arneis Vigna La Brina, Barbero’s, Canale	*bottle*	£12.99
	Roero Arneis is becoming more serious and is deservedly getting more attention.
2005	Dolcetto di Dogliani San Luigi, Pecchenino	*bottle*	£10.99
	Not one of the very modern Dolcettos (Dolcetti?) that is trying to be fuller-bodied than it has the fruit for, but an honest, soft, attractive, medium weight example.
2004	Roero Superiore, Barbero’s, Canale	*bottle*	£19.00
	I often refer to Roero Superiore as “Poor Man’s Barolo” – it is made from Nebbiolo and has the advantage of maturing earlier. The 2004 is quite ready now and thoroughly delicious.
2000	Barbera d’Alba, Barbero’s, Canale	*bottle*	£14.50
	Barbero’s Barbera [sounds like a tongue-twister!] is more old-fashioned than their Roero – paler, earthier and a little lighter but nonetheless enjoyable.
1999	Barolo Sorano, Giacomo Ascheri, Serralunga d’Alba	*bottle*	£31.00
	Very classic “tar & roses” Barolo – spice and power. Ideally decant for 3-4 hours before serving.
1998	Barolo Villero, Mascarello, Langhe	*bottle*	32.50
	A more leathery, earthy style of Barolo. Makes a nice contrast to Ascheri (above).

Tuscany

Once upon a time I used to dismiss Tuscan wines on the grounds that most Chiantis are too expensive and most Supertuscans have no regional character. I changed my mind afew years ago. True, there are some very expensive wines from “Chianti-shire” – some bordering on taking the Mickey, but one should really think of a top flight Brunello di Montalcino in the same context as Premier Cru or even Grand Cru Burgundy.

Chianti

2005	Chianti Classico, Castello della Paneretta	*bottle*	£12.99
	Very well made traditional Chianti. No new oak here.
2003	Chianti Classico Riserva Torre a Destra, Castello della Paneretta	*bottle*	£27.50
	Winner of the Tuscan Red Trophy at 2007 International Wine Challenge. Traditional style – 100% Sangiovese aged in large botti. Fantastic concentration. Very enjoyable now but will certainly reward a few years’ cellaring.
2000	Chianti Classico Giorgio Primo, La Massa	*bottle*	£45.00
	Opulent, rich, modern-style Classico. Drinking well now. A bit pricey but very delicious.

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic

Brunello di Montalcino & Rosso di Montalcino

2003	Colleone Rosso di Montalcino, Santa Maria [O]	*bottle*	£21.00
	Softer and more forward than a Brunello, having had less barrel age. Highly recommended, great with roast lamb. Organic.
2002	Brunello di Montalcino, Pietroso	*bottle*	£25.00
	Soft, forward and attractive already. Really very good for a supposedly "off" vintage.
2002	Brunello di Montalcino, Sesti [B}	*bottle*	£29.50
	A bit more finesse than the Pietroso and a snip at the price.
2001	Brunello di Montalcino, Sesti [B]	*bottle*	£39.00
	"Mid crimson. Relatively light but correct nose on the mulch to compost axis. Jewelly fruit with lots of acidity and fine tannin. Clean and refreshing though still quite dry on the finish. Definitely leaner than their 1999. Good balance." 17.5/20 Jancis Robinson
1998	Brunello di Montalcino, Sesti [B]	*bottle*	£49.00
	" Mid crimson. Relatively light but correct nose on the mulch to compost axis. Jewelly fruit with lots of acidity and fine tannin. Clean and refreshing though still quite dry on the finish. Definitely leaner than their 1999. Good balance." 17.5/20 Jancis Robinson
2001	Brunello di Montalcino Phenomena Riserva, Sesti [B]	*bottle*	£55.00
	"Named after shooting stars observed here on 18th November 2001.Not terribly deep ruby. Real lift and richness. Round and transparent. Very correct. Lots of acidity but it has roundness too. A hint of cough sweets. Filigree texture. Are we meant to think this wine tastes of shooting stars? It is possible. A lively, dry finish, only very slight reminiscent of dried fruit." 18.5/20 Jancis Robinson
2000	Brunello di Montalcino Phenomena Riserva, Sesti [B]	*bottle*	£55.00
	A little softer and more forward than the 2001 Riserva. Drinking well now.

[O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic

White wines, Super-Tuscans & Other Tuscan Reds

2003	Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Teruzzi & Puthod	*bottle*	£9.95
	Fragrant, fresh, crisp dry white.

2000	Vin Santo, Castello di Brolio	*half*	£22.50
	Famous sweet white made from grapes dried in the towers of Tuscan Castelli. Great with pancakes or, more traditionally, biscotti.

2002	Morellino di Scansano, Moris Farms	*bottle*	£11.50
	Sangiovese grown in southern Tuscany . Soft and approachable.
2003	Tre, IGT Rosso di Toscana, La Brancaia	*bottle*	£14.00
	Tre derives its name from its three grape components: Sangioves, Merlot & Cabernet. La Brancaia is a very well founded winery in a beautiful location in the heart of the Chianti Classico district.
2001	Il Blu, IGT Rosso di Toscana, La Brancaia	*bottle*	£37.00
	So-called on account of it’s blue label ! This is the big brother to Tre, above, made from Sangiovese and Merlot and barrique aged.
2001	La Massa, IGT Rosso di Toscana	*bottle*	£21.00
	Delicious blend of Sangiovese & Cabernet Franc made by the same wine maker as Giorgio Primo Chianti (see above). Highly recommended.
1990	Sammarco, Castello di Rampolla	*bottle*	£75.00
	“The saturated ruby/purple/garnet color is followed by an intense yet youthful fragrance of ripe black fruits, vanillin, and minerals. Full-bodied, rich, beautifully delineated and structured, it possesses considerable body, tannin, and extract. Although accessible, it is extremely young and ideally should have another 2-4 years of cellaring. It should age well for 15+ years. As I have said many times, Sammarco always reminds me of a top Graves , because of the tobacco/mineral component it often displays. This outstanding Tuscan producer has been exceptionally consistent over the last decade, so it is not surprising that the 1990s performed brilliantly. Drink 1997-20010” 93/100 Robert Parker

The East Coast – Jesi & Abruzzo

No Italian wine list is complete without a Verdicchio and at last we have found one with good flavour and structure in the wine from the Santa Barbara estate. The two Montepulcianos from Casa Vinicola Roxan are also great representative examples of their region.

2004	Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Santa Barbara	*bottle*	£7.35
	Fresh flavoursome citric character. Ideal outdoor white.

2002	Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Casa Vinicola Roxan	*bottle*	£6.75
	Gutsy but soft red. Great barbecue wine.
2001	Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Superiore Galelle, Roxan	*bottle*	£10.50
	Fuller bodied than the regular cuvée with firmer tannins.

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic

The South – Puglia , Sicily & Pantelleria

Puglia is the new Sicily, I am told ! It’s true that it’s several years since we cottoned on to the great Sicilian wines of Planeta and Donnafugata but these should not now be forgotten in our haste to explore more regions. In fact we have added a few new Sicilians by increasing the range from Donnafugata – who can resist their beautiful labels? The newcomer from Puglia is a Primitivo from Conti Zecca who, despite being an old estate established in the 16 th Century, are amongst the leaders of the modernist school that is getting Puglia the recognition it deserves.

Puglia

2002	Primitivo Donna Marzia, IGT Salento, Conti Zecca	*bottle*	£10.95
	Primitivo has a marked black fruit character with big but supple rounded tannins. The Donna Marzia has not been oak aged and is a great example of the grape. Great with slow cooked hearty meat dishes.

Sicily

2004	Anthilia, Sicilia IGT, Donnafugata	*bottle*	£10.75
	Fragrant dry white made from Ansonica and Catarratto, two quality local Sicilian grapes. Great with grilled fish dishes.
2004	Vigna di Gabri, Contessa Entellina, Donnafugata	*bottle*	£16.00
	Fuller-bodied than the Anthilia being made from 100% Ansonica of which 15% has been aged in barriques for 4 months. Prominent floral and mineral character. Serve with heartier fish dishes and white meat.
2004	Chardonnay, Sicilia IGT, Planeta	*bottle*	£21.00
	Weighing in at 15% this is possibly the biggest Chardonnay you will ever taste but remarkably it has structure and balance between the fruit and new oak.
2003	Sedara, IGT Sicilia, Donnafugata	*bottle*	£10.95
	100% Nero d’Avola. A great example of modern winemaking which manages to retain regional character. Full-bodied, spicy, earthy, yet neither rough nor rustic. A great favourite in the Royds household.
2002	Tancredi, Contessa Entellina, Donnafugata	*bottle*	£21.75
	Made from 70% Nero d’Avola & 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged for 18 months in barriques, Tancredi, named after a character in Lampedusa’s The Leopard, exudes the essence of the heat of Sicily, yet retains balance between fruit & oak.
2003	Santa Cecilia, IGT Sicilia, Planeta	*bottle*	£21.00
	Made from 100% Nero d’Avola but with more new oak than Donnafugata’s Tancredi, Santa Cecilia is powerful with earthy black cherry flavours and a rich, supple, very ripe finish. We have found this to be great with venison.
2003	Syrah, IGT Sicilia, Planeta	*bottle*	£21.00
	Big rich, smoky Syrah. Half-way in style between Hermitage and Barossa.
2001	Mille e una Notte, Contessa Entellina, Donnafugata	*bottle*	£48.00
	As well as having a most elegant wine label [see below] this shows what Nero d’Avola, Sicily ’s best native red grape, can do. An iron hand in a velvet glove – power and elegance combined and still very Italian.

Pantelleria

NV	Morsi di Luce, Passito di Pantelleria, Florio	*50cl*	£12.95
	Sweet wine made from Zibbibo (= Muscat) grown on the baking hot island of Pantelleria . The grapes are raisined in the hot dry wind prior to pressing.
2003	Ben Ryé, Passito di Pantelleria, Donnafugata	*bottle*	£31.00
	When one considers how tiny the island of Pantelleria is, it would appear very indulgent to have two wines from there but Donnafugata’s version is sweeter, more raisined and more concentrated than the Morsi di Luce.	*half*	£16.95

Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine [O] – Organic [B] - Biodynamic